Togo & Benin

Togo - Four glorious days After battling your way through the crowds of money changers, hustlers and helpers on the border between Ghana and Togo, you emerge to find yourself in the city centre of the Togolese capital, Lome, and a bare stone's throw from the presidential palace. The question immediately springs to mind: "why…

Pray for Ghana

We arrived in Ghana on the Thursday before Easter weekend. After spending a long day on a bus from Abidjan, including a breakdown which lasted for several hours when our bus failed to make it up a small hill, we stopped at Axim, one of the first towns in any size on the Ghanaian coast.…

The Cote de Khaki

The first thing that you notice after crossing the border from Burkina into the Cote D'Ivoire is the roadblock straight in front of you. It is of a style, solidity and professionalism that puts the efforts of the Burkina police to shame.

Burkina Faso – big men and little people

By the time we had completed our month in Mali, the 'hot season' had started in full. Apparently we had arrived during the 'cold season' when daily temperatures rarely go over 45 °C. Therefore it was with a certain eagerness that we embarked on our trip Southwards towards the coast and the cool, cool sea.…

Mali: take one large river, one large desert….

Most tourists who go to Senegal go for hedonistic reasons, lying on the beach with fine French dining amid lush tropical scenery. Nobody goes to Mali for hedonistic reasons. The dust, sand, poverty, underdevelopment, poor transport, scarcity of 'luxury' manufactured goods and the heat, especially the heat, mean that it is always a difficult place…

You don’t want to go to Dakar

"You don't want to go to Dakar" was the reply that we heard time and again when we told people in rural Casamance that we were going to go to the capital. "It's the city of crooks, thieves, cheats and swindlers, aggressive and noisy - no good for tourists". They were generally unconvinced when we'd…

Senegal: More tales from the dark continent

November 1999, I arrive in Southern Senegal from Gambia, as part of my effort to travel overland through Africa, from the Westernmost point to the Southernmost. This is the second instalment of the travel diary. Hello again all, just arrived in Dakar, the capital of Senegal, after spending the last month in the South Western…

An Irish anarchist in Africa

In November 1999, having worked 2 full-time jobs for the previous year, I had saved up enough money to travel to Africa with my girlfriend Deirdre. My goal was to travel overland from the Westernmost point of the continent, in Senegal, to the Southernmost point in South Africa. Along the way I wanted to make…

Chekov’s back!

Back in early 2016, I was already far behind my original schedule when I got stuck in the process of writing a theoretical summary of my early experiences on the left. I just couldn't arrive at an article that I was happy with. No matter how hard I tried, everything came out sounding too jaded…

The birth of the anti-globalisation movement

On the first of January 1994, an army marched out of the Lacedon jungle in the state of Chiapas in Southern Mexico and seized control of four towns including the regional capital of St. Christobal de las Casas. This uprising was seen as particularly significant by anarchists due to the nature of the rebel army,…